SV Gallant Fox

Voyage from Panama to Mexico

In late March on the Caribbean side of Panama, the weather grows calmer and cruisers select from many fine travel choices. Some prefer to stay in the San Blas archipelago for, like, ever. Others work their way NW to Panama's popular Bocas del Toro and all its anchorages and marinas. Perhaps the majority of Western Caribbean cruisers head for the summertime hurricane protection of the Rio Dulce in Honduras. If they sail there from Panama, cruisers typically take time along the way to visit Isla Providencia, due east of Nicaragua; gradually work their way north around Nicaragua's extensive shallows to the Vivorillos islands, then turn west to stop off at popular Isla Roatan in Honduras before closing out the cruising season by traveling up the Rio Dulce to one of its many marinas. It sounds like a grand tour and one that we'd considered. But this cruising season we had bigger fish to fry: we wanted to get to Mexico's Yucatan peninsula as quickly as possible so that we could tour Mayan ruins until we couldn't stand the tourism any longer and the approaching hurricane season forced The Fox onward to the US East Coast for a well-earned refit.

Thus it was that, contrary to almost every other cruiser out there, as soon as we found a long enough weather window we left Panama on March 28 and sailed 880 miles directly to Puerto Morelos, Mexico (located about halfway between Cozumel and Cancun). It was one of the calmest, easiest passages we've ever had. See above photo for wing-on-wing goodness.

The Backpacker Boats of Panama

The Caribbean side of Panama attracts a type of tourist few other places see: seafaring backpackers. That there pic of the West Holandes anchorage in Panama's San Blas islands, is a view of several vessels that serve this subset of the adventure travel community. In fact, The Fox was the only boat in this view, that was not a backpacker boat.

From what we saw during our time in the San Blas, the typical seagoing backpacker is an adventurous 20-to-30-something, single, white, and middle class. They're seeing Latin America on the cheap and want to experience the Spanish Colonial city of Cartagena and see a bit of Eastern Panama, one of the world's last non-industrialized areas. In Eastern Panama, the through-roads on shore - hence, the buses and other land-based public transportation - peter out a few miles SE of Portobelo, Panama. The only reasonable way to get from Panama to Colombia in this roadless area is by plane ($$$) or charter boat ($$). If these young adventurers can make it as far as either Panama City or Cartagena, the backpacker boats are waiting to take them the rest of the way.

San Blas Archipelago, Panama - a Look Back

Yeah, we spent about 2 weeks of March, 2011, in the San Blas islands on the eastern (Caribbean) side of Panama. I'll just get it out of the way right now and put up this cliche photo of the exotic white-sand San Blas coral island with the happy native happily paddling his sailing cayuca to his simple happy home at the end of his happy, simple day. Here ya go. You'll find something similar on every Caribbean cruiser's blog you can find. We're all about the blue skies, palm trees and white beaches.

The San Blas gets a lot of hype for being one of the premier cruising grounds in all the world, but we found ourselves having to really try to enjoy our time there. What ended up being so...meh?

In the Interim

We had a long dry spell without Interweb connectivity. We sailed from Panama to Georgia with hardly the opportunity (or inclination) to post. So now I'm going to catch up, starting in Panama and moving forward the way we did in reality. Now, where did I leave off...?

I'll start with Panama and one part of its broad artisanal spectrum. Let's talk molas.

Underway - Place your bets

1.April, a new weather forecast warns of strong trade winds building along the end of our route in to Puerto Morelos, Mexico. Winds to blow to mid-to-high 20kts. w/ 6'-8' seas on a 6-sec. period on Mon., 4/4, our expected day of arrival.
Our 1300Z position today, 2.April = 18deg.02'N/083deg.33'W. E winds 8-12, seas ENE 4' or less but getting a bit choppy - we can feel it comin'. 1014mb, 60% PC w/ occas. small rain showers. Motorsailng, COG = 318T, SOG = 6.5 kt. We've 255 mi. to go - at these speeds we're going, likely to make landfall @ Puerto Morelos late Sun./early Mon. a.m. so will heave to 'til sunrise Mon. if we must. All's well but who'll wins this race: The Fox? Or the weather?? m

Underway - Panama to Mexico, Day 4 at sea

1300Z position = 16deg.27'N/081deg.46'W. Winds SE 8-12, E swell ~5' @ ~7 sec. Bar is 1012, skies = 50% PC, 83F in cabin. Course = 300T, speed over ground = 5kt. With these light winds & relatively fllat seas we're sailing wing-&-wing. Wow - at least for today, it's a classic Caribbean Cruise. Finally persuaded red-footed booby to leave his perch on our lifelines in favor of a passing trawler. We've about 380 mi. left to go to Puerto Morelos, expect landfall by Mon. p.m., 4/4 if all stays well. m

Underway Panama to Mexico

Left Panama @ 1600 on 3/28.Good sailing winds of 10-20 kt. NE but w/ rolly beam seas to 6'-8' 3/29 gave us a couple boarding waves into cockpit. Now easing to 6' or less. Our 3/30 0800 position = 12 deg. 40'N/081 deg. 00'W. 1014mb, winds NNE 035, 12-15kt., sea 1.5m-2m @ 6sec. Course =350T, SOG 4.7kt. Skies PC w/ slight haze. Plan to pass E of Isla Providencia (now 35 mi. away) then either E or W of Quita Sueno Banks depending on wind. All's well but salty. m

Underway - Out of San Blas

No satellite connection thus no trip report for a while. Waited out approx. 8 days of enhanced trades w/ strong breeze to high-20s/low 30s when daily squalls passed over. Had a few days of sun & calm water when the snorkeling was excellent. Very crowded everywhere, about 200 boats just in the western San Blas. And this is Early Season. Exited San Blas 3/24, backtracked to Isla Linton for fuel loading & seashell collecting - both successful - 3/25-3/27 (this a.m.). Now in Portobello for intense Internet work on shore plus a bit of provisioning. Weather looks good for an imminent departure for Mexico - maybe Tues., 3/29. More to follow. m

One Thing You Never Want To See At Anchor

Yeah, this.

You're looking at a helicopter buzzing past a ketch anchored behind us in Portobello, Panama. Click to enlarge.

Because of the TV camera we saw mounted to the bottom front of the helicopter...and the fact that it was setting up and then "chasing" a guy and a woman riding full speed in a panga toward the Spanish ruins of the north fort (you can see the panga's wake in one of these photos)..., we guessed someone was filming a segment of some TV travel show or whatever.

We were not entertained.

Chopper Pilot Dude was flying BETWEEN SAILBOATS AT ANCHOR. In 20+ knots of wind. And it's tight in here - the boats in the Caribbean don't leave as much space between them as boats do on the Pacific side. We saw Chopper Dude do his first dry run OUTside the boats at anchor (i.e., next to The Fox), and almost lose it in the crosswind. And then he gets comfortable and makes a dozen passes in between various boats, lower than mast height and no doubt looking for Awesome Camera Angles. At least he didn't hit anything, so I guess he knew what he was doing.

The things you see while cruising.

Tsk tsk.

Can anyone tell me what TV show he was working for? Were we on TV? Hmmm?

m

More on Portobelo, Panama

Considering that we've already visited Portobello twice since we transited the Canal, a photo essay is overdue.

Portobello is located about 20 miles from Colon/Shelter Bay Marina, so depending upon when you exit the Panama Canal, you could go straight to Portobello and start your Caribbean cruise at once. The mostly-jungle-covered bay has a wide-ish, deep-ish approach. The only obstructions are on the periphery, no big deal. You can anchor anywhere in the bay you like the depth, but most boats prefer anchoring either in front of Portobello town or a half mile across the bay along the north shore in the shadow of a very well preserved Spanish fort. Howler monkeys bellow near there.

Portobello town has the usual cruier amenities: bus-to-Colon-access; dinghy dock (aim for the church, look for other dinghies, pay $1); garbage drop (will offend Western middle-class sensibilities); Captain Jack's (VHF72 at 0900 local time for local cruiser net), can arrange jerry cans of diesel & gas, plus propane, laundry, etc.); markets, church, museum, cafes. Nice town.