We moved southeastward fairly quickly along the Mexico mainland. Here's what happened during the month of February.
1.Feb.-3.Feb.2010
Passage from Zihuatanejo to Puerto Escondido (15deg.51'N/097deg.04'W). Very little wind, mostly motor-sailing in S breeze of <5 knots. Water's calm, days are hot - 80s-low 90sF. Critters spotted en route include spotted dolphin, common dolphin, many olive Ridley turtles heading south, leaping manta rays (actually, smooth-tailed mobula) and one sailfish. Overnight dodged several cruise ships and freighters. Passed Acapulco at sunrise - many very large hotels and condo buildings spread out for more than 10 miles on either side of bay.
On approach to Puerto Escondido, encountered several shrimpers. Anchorage in Puerto Escondido is essentially gone. Tourist pangas are on permanent moorings out to the 70' depths. There is room in bay for only 1-2 boats to anchor in 80'-100' outside of surf line; and for 2 more boats on the seamount futher out toward mouth of bay. The Fox anchored in 42' on seamount next to s/v Sweet Dreams. Entire bay is uncomfortably rolly. Representative of port captain arrived 1/2 hour after we anchored & just before sunset to advise us to check in with port captain - and to photograph The Fox and crew. We advised the rep that we planned to depart before sunrise and would not be able to check in; this seemed acceptable to him. Once the sun set, the entire anchorage was lit with 8 large, bright vapor lights - presumably, to reduce drug trade & theft. We did as promised & left just before first light. Conclusion: Puerto Escondido may be a spot to anchor in an emergency, but it is not a preferred anchorage for the likes of us. Total miles from Zihuatanejo to Puerto Escondido = 212.
4.Feb.2010
Left Puerto Escondido in NE winds 9-12 knots, dropping to flat-calm outside of bay. Drat. Many Ridley turtles on their way south. A family of bottlenose dolphin accompanied The Fox periodically, and put on an excellent show of leaps and twists about the bow. GB caught a 42" dorado so it was sashimi & sushi of the finest kind for several meals.
Arrived midafternoon at Chachacual/La India bays, one of the several Bays of Huatulco. La India is reputed to be the most sheltered of the Bays of Huatulco, but due to the areas of protected coral the anchorage is small. Anchor bow and stern - not just to keep facing into the swell, but because La India is very popular with the local tour boats & a dozen pangas & tour boats up to 45 feet will anchor in a space normally intended for 2 40-foot sailboats. You may see 200 visitors snorkeling, swimming and playing on the beach. Yet by about 2pm the tour boats magically disappear all at once...and you are left with a private anchorage until 10 the following morning. Anchored bow & stern in 22'. Total miles = 57.
6.Feb.2010
Increasing rolliness in La India prompted our departure to Marina Chahue, Huatulco, Oaxaca. Navigated around the reefs and rocky bits, and through the narrow entrance jetty, without incident. Total miles: 6.
Got reacquainted with a few vessels in the marina who had preceded The Fox southward. Marina staff are all pleasant & helpful; the town of La Crucecita is excellent for tourism and provisioning; and the marina was a secure place to leave The Fox whilst the crew took the bus for 10 days of inand touring to Oaxaca, San Cristobal de las Casas, & the ruins of Palenque. Total time boat spent in marina: 4 weeks.
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