Definitely swing by the ruins of Edzná on your way out of Campeche. They're about 30 miles southeast. You drive east out of Campeche on Highway 180, turn right at Highway 188, and just follow the signs to Edzná.These ruins represent the southernmost of the Classical Mayan Puuc architecture (reflecting the period from 700-900 AD), but in even earlier times (beginning in 250 BC) Edzná was famous for its agricultural production, having the most extensive canal and irrigation system on the Peninsula. Its integrated system of aqueducts and reservoirs covered several square miles across the valley floor. This was the Bread Basket of the Yucatan. Goodness but it's hot and dry now.
You enter Edzná and cross a sacbe to approach the main plaza. Looming up to your immediate left is the large main platform supporting the site's largest and grandest structure: The Building of the Five Stories, a combination temple, palace and pyramid. That's it, the tallest building in the distance on the photo's left. It's a schlep from the plaza where GB's standing up to the platform (those stairs are steeper and there are more of them than it looks), but while you catch your breath up there you will see several smaller pyramids and other structures cluster around the Five Stories.
The restoration of something as massive as the Five Stories out of nothing but jungle and rubble is a feat in itself. Mexican nationals and Mayan refugees from Guatemala did the work. As well as the excavation and restoration of the rest of the site. Here's a photo of the interpretive sign at The Five Stories - an artist's rendition of what the building may have looked like when it was in use. Next to it is a photo of what it looks like nowadays. Love those roofcombs: tons of stone piled high and thin, yet they look ever-so-delicate.
Below the main platform and across the main plaza, behind the ballcourt, is the relatively small and unassuming Temple of the Masks. Here, archaeologists uncovered a pair of benches on either side of a doorway; under the benches were large stucco 
masks so well preserved you can still see some of the original red, black and blue paint. Look closely at this pic of one of the masks up over here on the left. The archaeologists guess that these masks represent sun gods. As long as we're guessing, I'd like to speculate that nobody would put a sun god under a bench. I'm thinking, entertainers, singers, actors. People with mass appeal, hence their flashy appearance. Observe: on either side of this mask's googly crossed eyes you see a large circle. Scholars agree that those are the giant earspools this fellow was wearing. I think I also see a large jade labret in the mask's lower lip as well as a plug in the upper lip. While we're on the subject, here on the right is a photo I took of a portrait-ceramic at the archaeological museum in Mérida - check out the extensive tattooing and scarification all over this guy's face, especially that left eye. Bet it didn't stop there, if you get my drift and I think you do. Nice hat.
Kids these days with their fancy hipster body modifications got nothin' on a Classic-Period Maya.
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